Here are my mapped routes for St. Malo to Santander by section.
I am sharing them not because I think they are the best routes but to possibly save you time. I spend hours on the web searching for routes and in the end plotted my own using a mixture of the Velodyssey (Atlantic Cycling Route or Eurovelo 1) and other routes I found from others.
We camped most of the time with the exception of a few nights so be aware that they usually start and finish at a campsite.
Also note that the whole route from St. Malo to Santander can't be mapped as one continuous route as it contains too many waypoints. I found this out the hard way after hours of hard work failed to saved repeatedly. I then divided it into manageable sections which allowed us to either stop at the end of the section or continue into the next depending on our progress and fatigue!
Warning - Please note that these routes have been plotted by me and I am human so bound to make mistakes. When following one of my routes, let common sense prevail and take own responsibility for your safety!
All of the routes are available via the RidewithGPS website
Section 1 - St.Malo to Iffendic
Section 2 - Iffendic to Guenrouet
Section 3 - Guenrouet to Les Boues
Section 4 - Les Boues to Esnandes
Section 5 - Esnandes to La Coubre
Section 6 - La Coubre to Montalivet
Section 7 - Montalivet to La Grigne
Section 8 - La Grigne to Biscarosse Plage
Section 9 - Biscarosse Plage to St Girons Plage
Section 10 - St Girons Plage to Hendaye
Section 11 - Hendaye to Durango
Section 12 - Durango to Castro
Section 13 - Castro to Loredo
Last section to the Los Reginas Ferry
Chasing the Sun to Santander
An epic cycle adventure from 19 August to 4 September 2017 - Ferry trips included in the dates. Despite the blog name, we didn't cycle as far as Santander but to Irun. I do have the plotted routes on the blog from Hendaye to Santander should you feel so adventurous! If you want to read the posts in a chronological order use the Blog Archive on the sidebar to the right of this title to get going.
Wednesday, 13 September 2017
Sunday, 10 September 2017
Recommendations and key points
1. Carry extra plastic bags in your panniers for future use. I used an extra large bag we picked up at a hotel to pack our sandy (wet) groundsheet into Mr B's pannier. If your panniers aren't fully waterproof, consider lining them with a black bin liner before packing your luggage.
2. Research Ferries and their costs. Some had a charge for bikes and some didn't like the one over the Loire. Mark cash points on your route so you don't run out. They don't accept cards everywhere.
3. Watch out for root humps on the cycle paths, especially those in the shadows of trees as they can really dislodge your panniers and throw you off balance.
4. European drivers are very courteous towards cyclists. It's embedded in their driving culture.
5. Take an extra toilet roll. French camping sites don't usually stock toilet paper in their toilets. We only took one roll and when that ran out, we had to buy four as shops didn't sell single rolls. That took up unnecessary space.
6. Don't assume that a French road with a high reference number eg. D733 would be quiet. We thought we picked a quiet road but it was very busy!
7. Take lightweight travel towels - one for the shower and one for the beach. They fold up small, are lightweight and dries quicker than the normal towels.
8. Take earplugs and an eyemask along. The noise in a camping site can be overwhelming at night and so can the light in the morning.
9. Don't underestimate the heat of the day. We often woke up to a lovely cool morning which evaporated at 11am. The earlier you set off the better!
10. Take the peak of your helmet along. It shields sun and rain. Alternatively take a cap - if you feel comfortable with not using a helmet on a cycle path, it would be useful to keep the sun off your head and out of your eyes.
11. Carry extra water. We used two Aldi (UK) 2L bottles as spares - one in my rackbag and one in Mr B's. They looked rubbish by the end of the tour but worked very well and often!
12. Carry a lightweight multi-tool in your barbag. You never know when you need one.
2. Research Ferries and their costs. Some had a charge for bikes and some didn't like the one over the Loire. Mark cash points on your route so you don't run out. They don't accept cards everywhere.
3. Watch out for root humps on the cycle paths, especially those in the shadows of trees as they can really dislodge your panniers and throw you off balance.
4. European drivers are very courteous towards cyclists. It's embedded in their driving culture.
5. Take an extra toilet roll. French camping sites don't usually stock toilet paper in their toilets. We only took one roll and when that ran out, we had to buy four as shops didn't sell single rolls. That took up unnecessary space.
6. Don't assume that a French road with a high reference number eg. D733 would be quiet. We thought we picked a quiet road but it was very busy!
7. Take lightweight travel towels - one for the shower and one for the beach. They fold up small, are lightweight and dries quicker than the normal towels.
8. Take earplugs and an eyemask along. The noise in a camping site can be overwhelming at night and so can the light in the morning.
9. Don't underestimate the heat of the day. We often woke up to a lovely cool morning which evaporated at 11am. The earlier you set off the better!
10. Take the peak of your helmet along. It shields sun and rain. Alternatively take a cap - if you feel comfortable with not using a helmet on a cycle path, it would be useful to keep the sun off your head and out of your eyes.
11. Carry extra water. We used two Aldi (UK) 2L bottles as spares - one in my rackbag and one in Mr B's. They looked rubbish by the end of the tour but worked very well and often!
12. Carry a lightweight multi-tool in your barbag. You never know when you need one.
Monday, 4 September 2017
Day 14 - Irun to Santander - Bus day
Bed was so comfortable and it was a shame to wake up - alarm was set for 7am to get us to the bus on time. No more serious cycling just a lovely bus ride through the Pyrenees to look forward to.
Some stress still as we needed to get the bikes on board the bus and despite the website giving helpful signs that if you book your bike and it's covered (bike bags can be bought from the ticket office) it's ok. See this website for more information - ALSA Bus service bike regulations
We would strongly advise you to go to the ticket office prior to your journey to buy the bicycle cover(s) if you don't like (possible) confrontation with a Spanish bus driver!
We would strongly advise you to go to the ticket office prior to your journey to buy the bicycle cover(s) if you don't like (possible) confrontation with a Spanish bus driver!
Arrived 30min before the bus departure and checked with another driver if we were waiting at the right place using handsigns and broken Spanish. Then crunchline when the bus stops and there was some heated discussion about something between Mr B and the driver (Mr B stayed cool) which was luckily defused by a helpful Spanish girl (fellow passenger) saying it's our own risk and we need to take the front wheels off if the bikes aren't wrapped. (We tried to buy the suggested bicycle covers from the ticket office but it was shut - bus went at 8.45am and ticket office opened at 9am.)
Done that and bikes went into the hold and we went into the bus. Phew what a relief!!
Done that and bikes went into the hold and we went into the bus. Phew what a relief!!
The bus journey flew past - quite unexpected fabulous scenery which reminded us of Switzerland and its green valleys, huge mountains and sometimes low misty clouds. The passenger facilities on the bus had very high specs - each seat had a TV and a USB cable socket available. Passengers had a good movie menu to choose from to keep them entertained. So if you decide to use the bus, keep a USB cable at hand to charge your phone on the bus.
We arrived at Santander bus station where the undamaged bikes were put together by Mr B (only reconnecting the front wheels) and we negotiated our way out of the station via the small lift (had to turn front wheel 90 degrees to fit in!).
Rest of the day was spent looking for a Lidl to find lunch and dinner and heading to Los Reginas ferry to take us across Santander Bay to Loredo where we wanted to camp.
Ok here comes our warning - we paid to camp for two days at Camping Derby Loredo but having sat down and eating the Lidl lunch, we packed up, booked a nearby fabulous little hotel (Hotel Estrella del Alemar) and left Derby Loredo in our wake. Not the campsite for us I'm afraid. Overpriced by far, a very very small pitch in the surfers area with other small tents, rubbish strewn everywhere and a few dodgy looking characters walking around. I didn't feel safe and we made a move. A loss of money but safety has no price does it.
We can highly recommend the hotel. Walking distance from the beach and Loredo town centre. We paid £91 for two nights (two persons). The best was the breakfast - only £2 per person (or 2.30 Euro) for a lovely continental breakfast. Amazing value and our host Alejandro was so hospitable. Our bikes slept safely in the secure hotel garage that was locked overnight.
We can highly recommend the hotel. Walking distance from the beach and Loredo town centre. We paid £91 for two nights (two persons). The best was the breakfast - only £2 per person (or 2.30 Euro) for a lovely continental breakfast. Amazing value and our host Alejandro was so hospitable. Our bikes slept safely in the secure hotel garage that was locked overnight.
ALSA bus which we took from Irun to Santander |
Santander view from the Los Reginas Ferry enroute to Loredo |
Pool (and my feet!) view at Hotel Estrella Del Alemar |
Saturday, 2 September 2017
Day 13 - Section 10 to Hendaye
Waking up in a dry tent was bliss which was probably one of the only few highlights of the trip. (Only joking as the scenary was good but that's about it!) I kept waking up thinking we might need to get a train to Hendaye to get there early to sort out the travel to Santander. Being a not so flexible person was stressing me so much. I like planning and working towards goals and achieving them. Not knowing what and how things would happen the next day was uncomfortable.
I did mention a few days ago that we jointly decided to end the cycling in Hendaye, having cycled from St. (Saint) Malo, North France to Hendaye, South France and on the border of North Spain.
The big question was how do we get from Hendaye to Santander?! I checked trains and the trip looks dreadful. About 3 or 4 changes and serious possibilities of missing connections. Anyway...later more on that.
We started the last day pedalling through more pine forests and applauded when we managed a shortcut to cut out about 5 miles of the routed cycle track by using a minor road. It was early enough in the day without too much traffic.
I just couldn't get going. Blame it on a lack of sleep, stress about our onwards journey, this being the last day and everything else. After a couple of stops where I had some encouragement from Mr B, we cycled into Bayonne. Start of a nightmare. The weather turned and became wet and very windy - some breaks followed where you dry off just to get wet again. It was warm so I didn't use my waterproof as we had the start of so many hills which keeps your body heat up.
Into Biarritz with its crazy tourism and sharp uphills followed by similar downhills - no flats, just up and down constantly. The marked Eurovelo 1 also sent us up and down two ridiculous paths. For the whole 11 days cycling I never pushed my bike but I had to here. About a 30 degree incline - ridiculous!!
Out of Biarritz we had to cycle on the main road - that's the route - to Hendaye. Strong headwinds with rain in your face, long hills with relative downhills which became precarious due to the strong headwinds. I could feel my heavy bike wobble which was really scary.
Mr B booked us a B&B in Irun, the first Spanish town alongside the (French) Hendaye. After a few more miles we got over the border - what a feeling! The B&B was fantastic. Excellent facilities and a brilliant English speaking owner Alberto who helped us getting bus (ALSA) tickets sorted after some research whether we would be allowed on the bus. When we mentioned to Alberto that we were considering taking the train, he was very wary about our train plans and suggested we take the bus instead, hence why he did all the kind leg work on our behalf. So kind.
His sister owns the pub next door, Izartxo so after doing some reconnaissance to see where the bus station is, we headed for their pub for a bottle of Crianza Rioja and a celebratory meal.
A day I won't forget easily and when the lanes in North Wales loom I will reflect on this day for perspective!
Cap Breton |
The well signposted bike paths |
We arrive at Hendaye! |
My angry moment!! I didn't push my bike for the whole trip up to this point - very unfair to give cyclists this ridiculous steep path to get out! |
Ok so I have a different top on - I got cold so pulled this one over the pink sleeveless top |
In Biarritz |
Thursday, 31 August 2017
Day 12 - Rest day
When you get close to the end of your route distance, you start to equate it to local routes you know like our 20mi Chester to Farndon circuit or the 6 miles to the centre of town or 12 miles to a neighbouring village and back. It becomes manageable in a bizarre sort of way.
We have 68 miles tomorrow to Irun which is the Spanish side of Hendaye. Mr B booked us onto a B&B (yeah for Booking.com) so hopefully crack Spanish sparkling wine celebrating the complete of our French North to South ride.
The Spanish bit looms though as we are taking the trains from Irun to San Sebastian, then to Bilboa and then to Santander. If we get there earlier we will camp at Loredo which we planned to do anyway.
Today was a sun catch-up day at the beach and pool. So relaxing. Hope all goes well tomorrow!
Day 11 or section 9. Floods!
We woke up to a porch that were flooded after some heavy rain in the night. Slightly frantic as this is daughter's tent with a 2000 rating nothing like our polycotton big tent which can withstand almost any rain. I had dreams where I woke up in a flood of water then tugging sleeping bag towards the toilet block to sleep there.
Cleaned porch, packed away wet tent which was coated with sand (yuk! Remember to pack random biggish plastic bags for a possible situation like this) and pedalled at 8.30am as usual. First out of Biscarrosse Plage were huge hills. Overtook a group of men cycling in a mini convoy. That felt good!
We both had a very light breakfast so after 12 miles we were famished and made a quick stop to feed the human machines then off again. It was a picturesque stop along one of the lakes - beautiful!
Our first mechanical trouble of our epic adventure was just about 2 miles after that stop when Mr B couldn't uncleat from his left peddle at all. We spent at least 10 or 15min to try and get his Shimano sandal unclipped. It eventually came loose after many twists and turns and it seemed that he lost one of his screws that keep the cleat fixed to the sandal. So cleat off and we continued. Lunch stop just outside Mimizan overlooking the river watching boys jumping into the river from the bridge - won't be allowed in the UK - all health and safety 'whatsits' you know! The boys seemed to have loads of fun - I envied them as I was very hot.
We got going again after a lovely lunch of Edam cheese slices, ham slices and Herta sausages. Lots of protein fuel.
The miles kept going and the pine forests rolled by. When one stopped we entered another. The ground is covered by heather and lots of ferns which were gorgeous. We reached our campsite just after 3.30pm and are looking forward to 2 days here so no pedalling tomorrow. Weather forecast looked rainy again and just when we sat down outside the deluge started, even heavier than the night before. Some spits of moisture into the inner tent but it all held. Big thunderclaps close by. When it died down, I went to the toilet block and saw angry rivers of water patterns on the road heading down the hill. Glad we were not camping in their way!
56 miles done for the day. Tired and off to sleep.
Tuesday, 29 August 2017
Day 10 (but section 8) - All off road cycling
Brilliant day! We left this morning in cloudy weather which was threatening to become more serious. I could see the blueish black clouds on the left and almost wished that it would rain - it was so humid. Mr B said he heard thunder a couple of times. The day stayed like that until around 11am when the sun came out. Luckily it was never as hot as it was a couple of days ago.
Fantastic off road cycling on the best cycle roads ever. See the photos. They even have road numbers - D802 or D804 etc. We went through lovely seaside towns which neither of us have heard about. The cycle roads took us like previous days through thick pine forests which smelled like some shower gel. Saw some geckos but no snakes this time - Mr B saw one crossing the road a couple of days ago where as I only saw snake roadkill - and a big one was that.
We made excellent progress and by lunchtime had about 30 miles done - just another 25 to go. I had terrible foot cramps today - both feet on and off. We are taking electrolyte tablets in our drinks every cycling day so not sure what cause this.
I use two Garmins on this trip. I have an Edge 705 (sorry they don't make them anymore) and a Garmin Vivoactive HR which is on my wrist. Garmin Edge shows me the route which I have pre-loaded and Garmin Vivoactive shows my results with heart rate and tracking all in one. Even shows the current temperature. Well, Garmin Edge shows the route as a thin blue line on the map. As we near the end, the thin blue line end comes in sight but oh is it slow to get to the last dot! It feels like it will take forever.
Tomorrow is another longer ride this time about 56 miles to a campsite where we want to spend two nights. Looking forward to it.
The thin blue line showing the route - it's those last 5 mile that are never ending! |
Gironde Cycling map |
Excellent signage on this section |
Fabulous bike paths |
Results for the day |
It's hot in Biscarosse Plage! |
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