Wednesday 13 September 2017

Resources - Mapped gpx routes for St. Malo to Santander

Here are my mapped routes for St. Malo to Santander by section. 

I am sharing them not because I think they are the best routes but to possibly save you time. I spend hours on the web searching for routes and in the end plotted my own using a mixture of the Velodyssey (Atlantic Cycling Route or Eurovelo 1) and other routes I found from others.

We camped most of the time with the exception of a few nights so be aware that they usually start and finish at a campsite.

Also note that the whole route from St. Malo to Santander can't be mapped as one continuous route as it contains too many waypoints. I found this out the hard way after hours of hard work failed to saved repeatedly. I then divided it into manageable sections which allowed us to either stop at the end of the section or continue into the next depending on our progress and fatigue!

Warning - Please note that these routes have been plotted by me and I am human so bound to make mistakes. When following one of my routes, let common sense prevail and take own responsibility for your safety! 

All of the routes are available via the RidewithGPS website

Section 1 - St.Malo to Iffendic 

Section 2 - Iffendic to Guenrouet

Section 3 - Guenrouet to Les Boues

Section 4 - Les Boues to Esnandes

Section 5 - Esnandes to La Coubre

Section 6 - La Coubre to Montalivet

Section 7 - Montalivet to La Grigne

Section 8 - La Grigne to Biscarosse Plage

Section 9 - Biscarosse Plage to St Girons Plage

Section 10 - St Girons Plage to Hendaye

Section 11 - Hendaye to Durango

Section 12 - Durango to Castro

Section 13 - Castro to Loredo

Last section to the Los Reginas Ferry






Sunday 10 September 2017

Recommendations and key points

1. Carry extra plastic bags in your panniers for future use. I used an extra large bag we picked up at a hotel to pack our sandy (wet) groundsheet into Mr B's pannier. If your panniers aren't fully waterproof, consider lining them with a black bin liner before packing your luggage.
2. Research Ferries and their costs. Some had a charge for bikes and some didn't like the one over the Loire. Mark cash points on your route so you don't run out. They don't accept cards everywhere.
3. Watch out for root humps on the cycle paths, especially those in the shadows of trees as they can really dislodge your panniers and throw you off balance.
4. European drivers are very courteous towards cyclists. It's embedded in their driving culture.
5. Take an extra toilet roll. French camping sites don't usually stock toilet paper in their toilets. We only took one roll and when that ran out, we had to buy four as shops didn't sell single rolls. That took up unnecessary space.
6. Don't assume that a French road with a high reference number eg. D733 would be quiet. We thought we picked a quiet road but it was very busy!
7. Take lightweight travel towels - one for the shower and one for the beach. They fold up small, are lightweight and dries quicker than the normal towels.
8. Take earplugs and an eyemask along. The noise in a camping site can be overwhelming at night and so can the light in the morning.
9. Don't underestimate the heat of the day. We often woke up to a lovely cool morning which evaporated at 11am. The earlier you set off the better!
10. Take the peak of your helmet along. It shields sun and rain. Alternatively take a cap - if you feel comfortable with not using a helmet on a cycle path, it would be useful to keep the sun off your head and out of your eyes.
11. Carry extra water. We used two Aldi (UK)  2L bottles as spares - one in my rackbag and one in Mr B's. They looked rubbish by the end of the tour but worked very well and often!
12. Carry a lightweight multi-tool in your barbag. You never know when you need one.


Monday 4 September 2017

Day 14 - Irun to Santander - Bus day

Bed was so comfortable and it was a shame to wake up - alarm was set for 7am to get us to the bus on time. No more serious cycling just a lovely bus ride through the Pyrenees to look forward to.
Some stress still as we needed to get the bikes on board the bus and despite the website giving helpful signs that if you book your bike and it's covered (bike bags can be bought from the ticket office) it's ok. See this website for more information - ALSA Bus service bike regulations
We would strongly advise you to go to the ticket office prior to your journey to buy the bicycle cover(s) if you don't like (possible) confrontation with a Spanish bus driver!

Arrived 30min before the bus departure and checked with another driver if we were waiting at the right place using handsigns and broken Spanish. Then crunchline when the bus stops and there was some heated discussion about something between Mr B and the driver (Mr B stayed cool) which was luckily defused by a helpful Spanish girl (fellow passenger) saying it's our own risk and we need to take the front wheels off if the bikes aren't wrapped. (We tried to buy the suggested bicycle covers from the ticket office but it was shut - bus went at 8.45am and ticket office opened at 9am.)

Done that and bikes went into the hold and we went into the bus. Phew what a relief!!
The bus journey flew past - quite unexpected fabulous scenery which reminded us of Switzerland and its green valleys, huge mountains and sometimes low misty clouds. The passenger facilities on the bus had very high specs - each seat had a TV and a USB cable socket available. Passengers had a good movie menu to choose from to keep them entertained. So if you decide to use the bus, keep a USB cable at hand to charge your phone on the bus.

We arrived at Santander bus station where the undamaged bikes were put together by Mr B (only reconnecting the front wheels) and we negotiated our way out of the station via the small lift (had to turn front wheel 90 degrees to fit in!).

Rest of the day was spent looking for a Lidl to find lunch and dinner and heading to Los Reginas ferry to take us across Santander Bay to Loredo where we wanted to camp.

Ok here comes our warning - we paid to camp for two days at Camping Derby Loredo but having sat down and eating the Lidl lunch, we packed up, booked a nearby fabulous little hotel (Hotel Estrella del Alemar) and left Derby Loredo in our wake. Not the campsite for us I'm afraid.  Overpriced by far, a very very small pitch in the surfers area with other small tents, rubbish strewn everywhere and a few dodgy looking characters walking around. I didn't feel safe and we made a move. A loss of money but safety has no price does it.

We can highly recommend the hotel. Walking distance from the beach and Loredo town centre. We paid £91 for two nights (two persons). The best was the breakfast - only £2 per person (or 2.30 Euro) for a lovely continental breakfast. Amazing value and our host Alejandro was so hospitable. Our bikes slept safely in the secure hotel garage that was locked overnight.


ALSA bus which we took from Irun to Santander
Santander view from the Los Reginas Ferry enroute to Loredo
Pool (and my feet!) view at Hotel Estrella Del Alemar

Saturday 2 September 2017

Day 13 - Section 10 to Hendaye

Waking up in a dry tent was bliss which was probably one of the only few highlights of the trip.  (Only joking as the scenary was good but that's about it!) I kept waking up thinking we might need to get a train to Hendaye to get there early to sort out the travel to Santander. Being a not so flexible person was stressing me so much. I like planning and working towards goals and achieving them.  Not knowing what and how things would happen the next day was uncomfortable.

I did mention a few days ago that we jointly decided to end the cycling in Hendaye, having cycled from St. (Saint) Malo, North France to Hendaye, South France and on the border of North Spain.
The big question was how do we get from Hendaye to Santander?! I checked trains and the trip looks dreadful. About 3 or 4 changes and serious possibilities of missing connections. Anyway...later more on that.

We started the last day pedalling through more pine forests and applauded when we managed a shortcut to cut out about 5 miles of the routed cycle track by using a minor road. It was early enough in the day without too much traffic.

I just couldn't get going. Blame it on a lack of sleep,  stress about our onwards journey, this being the last day and everything else. After a couple of stops where I had some encouragement from Mr B, we cycled into Bayonne. Start of a nightmare. The weather turned and became wet and very windy - some breaks followed where you dry off just to get wet again. It was warm so I didn't use my waterproof as we had the start of so many hills which keeps your body heat up.

Into Biarritz with its crazy tourism and sharp uphills followed by similar downhills  - no flats, just up and down constantly. The marked Eurovelo 1 also sent us up and down two ridiculous paths. For the whole 11 days cycling I never pushed my bike but I had to here.  About a 30 degree incline - ridiculous!!

Out of Biarritz we had to cycle on the main road - that's the route - to Hendaye. Strong headwinds with rain in your face, long hills with relative downhills which became precarious due to the strong headwinds.  I could feel my heavy bike wobble which was really scary.

Mr B booked us a B&B in Irun, the first Spanish town alongside the (French) Hendaye. After a few more miles we got over the border - what a feeling! The B&B was fantastic. Excellent facilities and a brilliant English speaking owner Alberto who helped us getting bus (ALSA) tickets sorted after some research whether we would be allowed on the bus. When we mentioned to Alberto that we were considering taking the train, he was very wary about our train plans and suggested we take the bus instead, hence why he did all the kind leg work on our behalf. So kind.

His sister owns the pub next door, Izartxo so after doing some reconnaissance to see where the bus station is, we headed for their pub for a bottle of Crianza Rioja and a celebratory meal.

A day I won't forget easily and when the lanes in North Wales loom I will reflect on this day for perspective!  
Cap Breton
The well signposted bike paths
We arrive at Hendaye!
My angry moment!! I didn't push my bike for the whole trip up to this point - very unfair to give cyclists this ridiculous steep path to get out!
Ok so I have a different top on - I got cold so pulled this one over the pink sleeveless top
In Biarritz